Wheel Bearings!

[ciaoflyer]

Can anyone confirm that 0.7 danm is 5.1 Foot Lb.

I am torquing up the nut on the end of the front wheel hub after changing brakes and it says tighten to 0.7 danm.  Also is it worth replacing this nut and if so where can I get them?

Ta!

[GTMaster]

I have never seen danm before but i found out that it stands for deca newtonmetres (1 danm is 10Nm). I used a converter on the net and 7Nm came up as 5.16 Lb/Ft.

I was able to get new nuts for the wheel hub, it came with the wheel bearing sets (one's a LH nut.) It's worth replacing if it's been beaten very flat a lot of times  or bits are missing from it. Don't know the measurements though but car parts stores should have them.

[GTMaster]

Thought i'd post the link as it might useful (since it's quick):

http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/converter.htm

[Allan]

From the factory workshop manual

[Allan]

Sorry

[ciaoflyer]

Sorry

Can you upload bigger images as I can't read these even if I zoom in

Thanks

[Allan]

sorry try this

[Darrell]

MOT testers don't like any play in the hub, but without a little play the bearing will overheat and self-distruct.

It's a constant battle with mine every MOT test to check the hubs for play

[ciaoflyer]

sorry try this

Thanks for this, I have this in my Bis owners manual but all my torque settings are Danm not ft lb,

Ta

[ciaoflyer]

I am worried about that nut because if it comes loose the wheel will fall off!  Gonna check at my local factors to see if they sell them.

[ciaoflyer]

OK got the nuts , however the right one is a reverse thread so how on earth do I get the correct torque as my wrench only works one way!  Also put new drums on the rear and the brakes are slightly binding, is this normal or does it need further adjustment?

Thanks again!

[Allan]

I have always adjusted front wheel bearings (new or repacked) by nipping up the nut (not wringing it's neck) and then backing it off until I had play. Then carefully tighten the nut until all the play has just gone and stake the nut there. I have done this on road race and rally cars and never had a problem. I see the factory workshop manual allows for .001 t0.004 inches (1 to 4 thou) axial play. And as you say the MOT man doesn't like any play at all. Been there, done that, lost that arguement. (NO PLAY MEANS NO PLAY)
It has always struck me as odd that the nut on the left side is right hand thread and vice versa. This means that that given the chance the nuts will undo rather that do up. As long as the washer is fitted and the nuts correctly staked it won't happen. I always prefered castleated nuts and split (cotter) pins myself. The only time I have ever seen a problem with Fiat nuts coming undone is when someone has assembled the wheel bearings without the washer and the they only come undone so far before they destroy themselves and seize.
Allan

[Rusty's Uncle]

I am with Allan 100% on this one . I have set wheel bearings to the workshop manual on some older cars then failed an MOT , gone back home , over tightened the bearings , passed the MOT then reset them straight away  [-/
Not sure I have seen a torque wrench that only works one way 

[ciaoflyer]

Thanks for that, the wrench works both ways but only torques to the right

[Wee Red Motor]

Could you not try one of these. You know the old stylee ones that you made do with when you were starting out and couldn't afford a decent one from Britool or Snap On.
I'm sure the bendy bar that indicates torque works both ways.
No the best on computers but have tried to put a link onto our favourite auction site.



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-HILKA-TORQUE-WRENCH-METER-/320572886322?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment