If anyone plans on replacing the bushes on the front and rear suspension I have recently changed all with success.
It took a while to do the first few, but it got quicker as i learned how to do it right.
The first point i would like to make is that i chickened out with the rear ones and left them with a garrage. The arms were already off the car. After a week he had only done i arm and one of the bushes was so badly fouled that it cannot sit flush. Only take it to a garrage if you trust them.
The good news is it is quite easy. THe front can be done in about a day, the rearmay take a little longaer as it is best to take the swing arms off.
TOOLS)
(Plan A)
M12 threaded bar
a bag of M12 nuts
M12 washers
a selection of sockets
"spanners for M12 bolts
Hammer
(plan B)
small blow torch
Hacksaw
Screwdriver (stright blade)
Hammer
1) If you can remove the stub arm completely then do so, it makes life a lot easier when swinging a hammer. you can remove the drum without diconnecting the brak as long as you put it on a block so the flexi hose isnt strained. This will allow complete removal of stub axle.
(The rear is not as simple. When disconnecting the brake pipes you can avoid losing too much brake fluid by clmping the flexi hose with mole grips. Use wooden dowels to prevent the teeth from damaging the rubber)
2) Remove the top stubb axle bolt. This will allow acess to top bush if you dont want to play with the brakes
3)chose a socket that is lager than the bush, and one that is the same diameter or slightly smaller tha the bush outer. It will be used to drive the bush it so it has to fit in the hole. If it is the same diameter, it may get stuck, but it doesnt matter ass you can attach the socket drive and turn it out with ease.
4) Chose a sockt that the bush mill fit inside (e.g. if the bush is 20mm, use at least a 21mm socket)
5) place each socket either side of the bush and feed threaded bar through, use plenty of washers and some very vy onew if you can find them or the washers will just bend into the end of the socket.
6) Use a lock nut at one end and a free nut at the other end. Using open ring spanners tighten and see if this will provide enough force. If not, find an assistant to hit the lock nut end with a hammer while you are turning the spanner. Although labour intensive, this will remove the bush iwthin about 10 mins. I do recommend a second person for this unless you can use a vice.
This method applies to all other bushes.
Plan A did not work with the rear bushes hence ....
Plan B
1) Stub axle must be removed as described.
2) Apply heat to the appropriate areauntil the rubber melts out and the inner tube falls out completely.
3) Use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the outer of the bush. Slow and steady is the key. If you hac at it you will cut the outside well but leav the inside proud which is no use.
4) Use a screwdriver and hammer and tap the outer bush shell out IF YOU HAVE CUT PROPERLY this will be very easy.
I would not recommend plan B for the front spring as i'm not sure what effect the heat will have on the spring.
When using this method on the stub axles it will melt all of the grease out of the stub axles, but maybe this is good if you need to regrease!
I managed not to melt the rubber seals either.
Any questions please ask. I've had to to alot of similar jobs to this car and may be of help to anyone whos doesnt want to pay for a mechanic either!
Michael
