Coolant Change Questions.

[andyzeetec]

Does anyone know the coolant hose size, that fits between the junction union (temp sensor) to inlet manifold. What does this actually do anyway? It looks about 13mm I/D without disconnecting. I need to change as weeping on manifold end, tried tightening but rubber has gone hard, due to being above the exhaust I guess. I need to change the coolant anyway, so want to get the hose up front.

I've also got a thermostat from axel, is it a case of just swapping them out. I guess I need a new gasket for the housing, looks like someone has previously used instant gasket black rubbery stuff (sealed ok though). I guess best place to drain is the large bottom hose.
Not sure if coolant tank float switch works at the moment, guess I'll find out when I drain it, I've read that the light should go off on dashboard when full. So if it doesnt work and I overfill it, does the excess fluid get blown out of filler cap or is there another pressure relief valve somewhere or is there another way of doing it?

I can see a bleed screw on the rad and under the bonnet for heater end.

Any other tips appreciated.

Thanks

[Hazey-n-Marc]

You seem to be on track. Drain the car then check the level light, if it doesn't work the fluid capacities are somewhere in the subscribers section. Draining from the bottom hose is fine.
The thermostat should be a straight swap, but you have to file a couple o lugs down on some, they hold the actual thermostat in place but sat a bit proud on mine, hence the file.
The inlet manifold is cooled, if you are changing that pipe I would also change the inlet manifold gasket when you are there, carb off as there is a hidden bolt inside the manifold. They get a bit of crud build up at both ends.
Bleed it well, especially at the heater.

Marc

[andyzeetec]

You seem to be on track. Drain the car then check the level light, if it doesn't work the fluid capacities are somewhere in the subscribers section. Draining from the bottom hose is fine.
The thermostat should be a straight swap, but you have to file a couple o lugs down on some, they hold the actual thermostat in place but sat a bit proud on mine, hence the file.
The inlet manifold is cooled, if you are changing that pipe I would also change the inlet manifold gasket when you are there, carb off as there is a hidden bolt inside the manifold. They get a bit of crud build up at both ends.
Bleed it well, especially at the heater.

Marc

Thanks Marc, I've pulled the coolant tank float switch out, if you swivel the float round 90 degrees to test,dash light does not light up,so cleaned muck off still doesn’t work, is there any way of testing it, maybe metering it at the multiplug end I guess. I’ve tried to see where it connects, but looks like I’m going to have to get under the car to trace wiring back to plug.  
Here’s a pic as found..

[scotty]

Mine doesn't work either so I have to kind of wing it a bit with the coolant levels.

Where is the float located?
I've been trying to find mine for a while now to check it.

We could see who's is the most crudded up?

[Hazey-n-Marc]

If you just bridge the contacts where the switch plugs in it should tell you if the rest of the system is working or not.

[andyzeetec]

The float is the white piece at the end of the black body in the picture, it swivels about a pin within the black body.

Anyway to save tracing the plug end, to test, I just nicked some insulation off both wires and shorted them out. Hey presto dash light came on which concludes the sensor is dead. Unserviceable as its a sealed unit

Not sure I want to pay 70 quid for a new one. 

http://webshop.fiat500126.com/katalog/artikelinfo/1588/switch_for_radiator_recovery_bottle_with_float

[Hazey-n-Marc]

It should be a very simple mechanism, if it doesn't work anyway pull it apart and try to bodge it, you will have lost nothing.


Marc

[gammakeith]

They appear to be a bit of a liability.  I have no float at the end of mine so I guess its floating around inside the header tank somewhere.  They have a sealed reed switch inside the main body with a magnet inside the float to trip the reed when in proximity.  Thus, not so easy to bodge.  I was going to have a go at making a new float but have not got around to it yet....

Keith

[andyzeetec]

It's annoying they are so expensive, maybe there is another supplier out there apart from axel or they are used on other vehicles, same part, listed as different part# 

[Bambino126]

I just put a new float switch on mine. Paid £26 for it.
Guess where I got it from?
The Fiat main dealer would you Adam and Eve it?
They had to do a lot of ringing around for me though, only one of their parts places had one left, somewhere in Wales, and they posted it from there.