paint-can-Tuning ;-)

[Alfons1972]

Hello,
I want to tell you about a modification with which we have good results here in germany:

Here in Germany many Fiat 126 and 500 are using the "Farbdosen-Tuning".
First time (as far as I know) in 2002 a member of the german 500forum.de used a "Farbdose" (=paint can) of the Revell-paint-company. So you can call it "paint-can-tuning".
look at this:
http://www.500forum.de/wbboard/thread.php?threadid=326&boardid=11&sid=83b218cb8cb86641f4bcf0b3856692af&page=3
(I hope, you understand that).
pics:
http://www.500web.de/bilder/lowcost1.jpg
http://www.500web.de/bilder/lowcost2.jpg
http://www.500web.de/bilder/lowcost3.jpg
http://www.500web.de/bilder/lowcost4.jpg

I'll try to explain:
The problem on the 650ccm engines is the Mickey-Mouse-shaped bakelite spacer below the carb. It leads to turbulences in the gas-flow.
To avoid them, the inlet duct has to be "cleaned".
I use a different solution, made by a friend of me. Look on picture below.

Later, a member of the 500forum made that to a piece of art using a tube made of brass...:
http://fstatic1.mtb-news.de/img/photos/1/0/2/0/0/1/_/large/DSC06058.jpg
http://fstatic1.mtb-news.de/img/photos/1/0/2/0/0/1/_/large/DSC06059.jpg

that doesn't make your car much faster (just a little bit), but you will feel faster reaction of the engine, especially in low revs... Some drivers report a lower consumption of gasoline...

[DEYAN IYI]

Great solution!!!!

Do you use smaller nuts and washers on the studs or there is enough room to get 28mm inner diameter? Or you cut a bit the washer?

[Alfons1972]

yes, I use smaller nuts. And the washer had to be cut a little bit.
But all in all no problem...

someone of the Fiat-126-forum.de made about 20 pieces of those to sell them in the 126-forum.
they are all sold now but propably someone in the UK can do that, too?

here is a pic of my parts (not as nice, but great working...)

[nrg19uk]

Looks like a good idea?, I always understood that the rougher the surface of the inlet way
 Would be better to help with the atomisation of fuel and air mixture on the other hand have the outlet as clean as possible to stop resistance of air flow. That bakerlite piece is designed to create turbulances for better atomisation.

I'm sure someone could correct me.

[smallcox]

Alfrons1972,

I'am with you on this one,
I done this modifaction myself back in the 90's so I could fit a custum fit manifold to the cyclinder head but ditch the plastic spacer/manifold and replaced it with a aluminum one that accomplished the same job as you mentioned with the insert. I found that the original washers can be used just need to be grinded down on one side and the same nuts are used with no problems.(see photo) these pictures are on stripdown so the gaskets are damaged but gives you the idea. As for extra power Well it's got to be in the right direction and fuel comsumption will only drop if the port is opened out which I supposed is a common thing when you have a grinder in your hand.
I believe with the correct mods to the head this mod will give the same power outputs than a twin inlet port panda head with simular porting work due to this being a tidier inlet port when finished

[nrg19uk]

Im all for modifying the ports but There's no mention of them opening up there port? Just installing a liner to whats there. Decreasing port size+less atomisation= performance gains???

[Rusty's Uncle]

Great thread kicking off here and it is all about ideas that I was thinking about this year but never got to try out . No time to chat now but if your cordless electric kettle has blown don't chuck it out just yet, all will be revealed 

[Hazey-n-Marc]

Threw mine out last week. Crap!!

[bis13]

hey rusty you ain t going to convert an aircooled into a water boiler?

[Rusty's Uncle]

No nothing like that but I will show you a picture of my bottom 
The bottom of my kettle that is !
So I had been looking at porting heads and gas flows etc and thought that the aircooled inlet was not a good design in that department but hey it was designed over 50 years ago for very different environment. A sleeve to blank off the side pockets seemed to be the answer to eliminating turbulence on the inlet manifold but if it was too thick on the sidewall it would restrict the inlet but if it was thin & weak then it might collapse down into the inlet port & then into the cylinders.
I started looking on the internet for suitable tubes then came across a vacuum cleaner pipe which was just about right so set that aside for future experimentation.
So out of the blue my fairly new expensive DUALIT kettle packed up as did our very expensive DUALIT toaster. That is an aside but if you happen to google broken DUALIT items you wil find that there are masses of unhappy people out there about these items. I found that out after I stripped down the kettle to replace the element but you can't  So I stripped the kettle down to its component parts to recycle them and the outer ring on the base contact is a great item for this inlet manifold job. I will get more pics when I can dig them out 

[Alfons1972]

the tube I use was made by a friend of mine on a lathe in a few minutes...
The sidewalls are quite thin. I think, less than 1mm...
And those paint-cans are even thinner.

what is the trick is... (I do not know how to say it in english. Ok, I'll try).
ok, the trick is, that this tube has to have a wider top ending, so it cannot fall into the port. besides it stabilizes the tube a little more...

the next thing is that we make the tubes about 1mm shorter than the bakelite's height.
First, there will be no problems when mounting the carb if the gasket will be pressed when tightening the screws of the carb.
And second, there will be no additional transportation of heat from the head to the carb.
that 1mm gap does not influence the gas flow too much, the gap is simply too narrow...

look on my simple drawing below to understand what I mean.

[Rusty's Uncle]

Alfons , my friend you do not have to worry about your use of the English language 
I can only count up to about 5 in German but your correct use of "to" and "too" in the right context would put some over here to shame.
Anyway back to the main subject, the part I mention from a kettle has a tiny flange which will hold it in place and is extremely thin but firm.
So the part I mentioned came from an expensive (crap) Dualit kettle but I then had two other kettles which leaked or packed up so I stripped those down as well . Interesting to find that the £8.50 cordless kettle from Tesco had exactly the same components as the Dualit but with a different frock 
So the chances are that most cordless kettles that sit on a base unit have a secret built in aircooled tuning device 

[bis13]

hoo woz u referin two abouut proppa granmar?
rusty have you now gone into the kettle scrap business? this is very interesting but but to add a bit of a curve ball into this thread has anyone noticed any performance gains when the weather is wet whilst driving the 126 because mine is definitely better in the wet than any other time by this i mean it picks up a lot quicker and feels more eager? i shall try this paint tin trick and see what occurs i might even dissect a dyson.....

[Rusty's Uncle]

Dug the bits out today so here is a picture of the brass ferrule from the base of a kettle . They are not long enough to run all the way through the spacer and only go half way so if you get two you can push one in from each side or use a bit of a tin can soldered in place to complete the tube. The brass is only about 0.2mms (0.008") thick but quite firm.

[DEYAN IYI]

Looks like a good idea?, I always understood that the rougher the surface of the inlet way
 Would be better to help with the atomisation of fuel and air mixture on the other hand have the outlet as clean as possible to stop resistance of air flow. That bakerlite piece is designed to create turbulances for better atomisation.

I'm sure someone could correct me.

The bakerlite piece of sh... was designed to save some brain effort of the italian engineers And then 30 years Polish resistence tо make any rationalization. Actually it's all about money saving (to cut 1 new size nut and 1 washer and then put by 2 of them... hahaha), who cares about performance... (Just compare to the japanese k-cars of the 70's...)