126 650cc aircooled wont idle (Solved)

[Larstpak]

Hey everyone

(as told in my recent introduction) my car has some small issues, well at this moment only 2.

Let me first tell you the parts i replaced past month:
Spark plugs
Air filter
Air intake
Carburettor (28s1a)
Dripplate
Rocker cap (aluminium)
Petrol tank
Sender unit
Fuel lines
Fuel pump

After all these replaced parts my car still wont run properly. Engine stalls when running it stationary except when the choke is on. when I take the car for a drive (and constantly pressing the gas pedal to keep it from stalling) it will also tend to "pretend" as if the engine drowns in petrol when you shortly and gently tap de gaspedal. However when you give it a little more, the engine will pick up again and sound ok.

Another Issue is that the Batterylight on the dash is constantly burning..
Meaning Im draining the battery however.. Ive driven the car for aprox 50 kms and started it countless times and battery is still not dead. Or the battery is in good condition or it is charging even though the batterylight is telling me something different.

ow and btw i checked the valve clearances
and dynamo belt for tension.

greetings and thanks in advance

[Da Londo]

Did you check ignition, timing, RPM.

[ChrisRLewis]

Have you replaced the contact points? and then check the ignition timing is ok.

[Larstpak]

These were my thoughts as well. The contactpoints can be found within the ignition cap?
Checked the spark by the way and both seem to work fine.
If I want to check timing, can this be done without an strobe? Thanks!!

[Gadge]

Yes very easy if you have a test light. Turn the engine by hand until the timing mark on the pulley is at 10 degrees BTDC slacken the distributor locking nut and the turn the ignition on. Earth one end of your test light (some where on the body or chassis) and touch the pointy end of the test light onto the big part of the points. Twist the whole distributor slightly until you see the light on your test light go out/come on. You need to set so that the light just turns off. This is the point that the points have broken contact and a spark would be on its way to the plug at 10 degrees BTDC. Tighten the distributor nut and try it out

Also may be worth looking at the fuel mixture and idle speed

[Larstpak]

Thanks for the explanation. I forgot to mention that I have been fondling with the carb, however it seems as if it does not respond to adjusting the idle mixture screw. Could this mean a vacuum problem in the carb? Must mention again. That the carb itself is new and so are all gaskets and manifold and dripplate (or what it's called on the other side of the channel  )

Cheers

[Da Londo]

Make sure you set the timing right. Check for air leaks between carb and engine. Check the float in the carb, if it leaks replace it, even new ones can leak so check em. And take the cylinderhead of and inspect it, replace the head gasket too. What's the mileage on the car?

[Larstpak]

Since I'm working on 2 problems at the same time the idle problem and the Batterylight I mentioned earlier.
I didn't much time to work on the idle/ignition problem, I did check the ignitioncap though.

This is the current condition:


The inside if the ignition was pretty greasy by the way, is this normal?
Ohw and by the way the car has done 69000 KMS

[Larstpak]

Good point Da londa what you said regarding the cylinderhead gasket. Is it possible that it will draw in false air threw the gasket between cylinder and head?

[Da Londo]

Not likely, it would be pumping out exhaust gases if it's gone.

[Larstpak]

First of all thanks for the suggestions regarding my problems.

The problem itself was where I didn't expected it to be.
It was the Solenoid (used on the 28S1A weber Carburettor)
It did not open when you turn on the ignition. I'll have to order a new one.
For now I removed the pin from within the solenoid.

The 2nd problem (regarding the batterylight) was relatively simple, I just replaced the voltage regulator and the brushes and it works fine.

cheers!