Cutting out...

[Bar Vitelli]

So, I got my red car through it's MoT with bit of welding and some mechanicals and it is very fast in the top gears, but there are some problems.  In first gear it makes a whining noise if let the clutch out completely. If I let it out only partially it drives okay and moves forward. Does that mean that the clutch is set too high and how big a deal is that to fix? The other problem is it keeps cutting out, maybe through overheating? How do I check and how tricky is it to fix? Any advice very welcome. The car has done less than 2,000 miles in the last 6 years....

[DeVilleChris]

is that bolt that I showed you in the cooling casing for the thermostat still an issue? I cam p[op down tomorrow if you're free and bring the rear glass too?

The thermostat could be an overheating issue

[Bar Vitelli]

Thanks, Chris, that would be great, I'm keen to get it sorted for Red Oktober, I'll have those lights ready for you if you do pop down! 

[Hazey-n-Marc]

When does it cut out? What are you doing when it cuts out? Is it when you come off power and put the clutch in or is it when on power or both? Did you do the fuel filters and check the fuel lines?

[Bambino126]

If it's cutting out under power it's gotta be an ignition fault surely?

[Hazey-n-Marc]

Or fuel starvation.

[Bar Vitelli]

We took it for a drive and Chris thinks the thermostat is okay, it drove great for a while and then cut out (I was worried it wouldn't!) and after 5 minutes got it started again. It was as I was slowing down it cut out but slowly and it stopped it if I pulled the choke up.  We were stuck for a whole but think it could be as simple as the fan belt is set too tight so when it stops raining I'm going to have a crack at changing it unless anyone has any other ideas? The whining noise in 1st gear is probably the clutch so I'll have to decide whether to risk it to Red Oktober or just take my green car...

[Hazey-n-Marc]

Keeping it running by pulling the choke up normally means it is running lean, could be carb set up, dirty carb, blocked fuel filter, perished or collapsed fuel lines, or a leaky gasket at the base of the carb, or a few other things. Spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb to see if you can see any bubbles, remove the jets and blow them through with compressed air (one at a time so you don't have to remember what way round they go in) check filter and pipes. Not necessarily in that order.

[Bar Vitelli]

Thanks, Marc, I'll see if I can get someone to help me with that next week.  Would that mean that it is not overheating? And why does it start back up again after 5 minutes or so?

[Hazey-n-Marc]

Might be worth checking the pump as well. It would have to be getting to potentially engine damaging temperatures to vaporize all of the petrol that quickly. My fuel pump was doing the problem you have, it was also drawing petrol through the return for some reason. If it is heat related it could also be the coil on it's way out, try swapping it for one off of one of your other cars.

[Rusty's Uncle]

Rust particles in the fuel tank?
My 126 drove me crazy with the cutting out and I pretty much tried/changed/serviced everything on the ignition and fuel system and it still did it and seemed to be getting worse in terms of how far I could go before it happened. Like you after some minutes the car would start. Not a sign of muck in the fuel filter etc but thought it could be rust in the tank. There is a fine gauze filter on the pick up tube inside the tank so as you drove the particles would eventualy clog the gauze so no fuel gets through. To test my theory I started the car and just let it run for about 20 mins. The engine kept running ok as the fuel was not sloshing about. I then drove around my little block which you would measure in hundreds of yards accelerating hard in 2nd gear then braking hard. Idea was to thoroughly agitate the petrol in the tank. I managed to get the engine to die after about 400 yards. When I got the tank out and flushed out the rust there was litteraly only about a level teaspoon full causing all the problems.
Might not be the answer but easy to test 

[Bar Vitelli]

Thanks, Rusty, I'll add it to my checklist, I'm looking tight for Red Oktober in my red car unless I take a risk, looks like I'll be doubling up with the missus in the green car...

[Kent126]

I'm with Rusty on this one. rusty fuel tanks in the 126 cause all sorts of problems, and it can be a bugger to fault find until you have pretty much done everything else.

I would advise anyone buying a 126 to replace the fuel tank with a new one as a matter of course. I will be putting a new one on my 1974 car, when it comes back.

Gary try a new tank and lines, check the pump and clean the carb and I reckon it'll be fine )

Tom

[grubscrew]

 Fuel tank debris. It amazes me how much crud is in fuel and the tanks it is stored in. It also amazes me how many cars out there have the filter at the furthest end of the fuel line, (talking about the 500, not sure of the 126`s) , in the engine bay of all places, where theres a capsule of fuel being heated up.
   If the filter is put as close to the outlet hose as possible, ie next to the tank, that will avoid any debris resting in the fuel line, before reaching the pump, clogging up the fuel delivery.
 Having had a new fuel filter just by the tank, (on my 500), and knowing my tank is a very clean one, it can be said that the quality of fuel beneath the garage forecourts ar less than clean, that after a year my filter has plenty of debris in it .
   That is of course your cutting out is due to fuel. Hope you find the problem. Mike.

[Hazey-n-Marc]

There is no real option on a 126, the tank is under the rear seat so the filter is by default in the engine bay. Crud on the internal tank filter does take a few minutes to fall off after turning the car off, my Scirocco did that, I put a lawnmower fuel filter of the end of it, sorted the problem as they are long and cylindrical so the flakes do not sit tight on them, but a 126 tank is cheap and easy to change as long as you prepared for a bit of swearing and scuffed knuckles.