Author Topic: Car won't start (Read 12660 times)

Bruce · « **Reply #15 on:** April 28, 2006, 03:01:21 PM »

the rod seems OK as the pump was raised by it when the bolts where lossened. I'll try some more petrol first though, troubl is with me that'll take a few more days

Bruce · « **Reply #16 on:** May 01, 2006, 01:33:21 PM »

put petrol in but still no joy, i'm 99.9% certain the car will run if i can only get some petrol up to the carb. I'll double check the pipes next time i get a chance to go down the garrage, and i'll pop over to the fiat dealer to see if i can get a new pump pushrod, I have to go over there to get a new FIAT badge to use for the hornpush on my steering wheel. other wise i'll try the electric pump route, pity though as i have 2 perfectly serviable pumps one only fitted and the other only done a few miles.

Bruce · « **Reply #17 on:** May 02, 2006, 10:32:16 AM »

just ordered a new pushrod from the fiat dealer (the rod cost more than the pump!). The dealer have only recently started doing fiats but have been doing fords for many many years and the parts guy rekons worn rods were/are a common problem on mondeos. that'll be here in a couple of days.

PaulB · « **Reply #18 on:** May 03, 2006, 01:35:29 PM »

Unless you want a part straight away, order from Europe. A 126 pushrod from Axel Gerstl is a few euros.

Bruce · « **Reply #19 on:** May 03, 2006, 05:51:28 PM »

it shoulf be hear tomorrow, yes it would have been nice to save a load of dosh but i want to get it started as soon as pos so i can sort out any other problems. checked the pipes, there is a slight leak in the return pipe but the main pipe is sound and petrol is easily sucked up to the filter (did not such it up further so as not to get mouthfull), i'll replace both once the car is running but i doubt that would stop it working, must be the pushrod, everything else is sound.

Bruce · « **Reply #20 on:** May 09, 2006, 03:40:31 PM »

put in new pushrod and new pump still it does not work, and on examination i've wasted my money as the old pump and pushrod where fine (at least i have spares now). the car allways started fine before all it needed was the batery being reconected and it started, what could cause a fuel pump to just stop working? do fuel pumps for the 126 all have the same layout, i.e. is the delivery pipe allway to the front?

126dave · « **Reply #21 on:** May 09, 2006, 04:52:26 PM »

bruce,check the return spring in the pump,visible from the push rod end,i have seen several that have a spring which has corroded away,the rod pushes up,but the pump will not return,they seem to suffer from condensation being perched up on top of the motor......

ChrisRLewis · « **Reply #22 on:** May 09, 2006, 05:06:12 PM »

not sure on the bis model but some mechanical pumps are critical on the spacer setup?

Bruce · « **Reply #23 on:** May 09, 2006, 05:18:28 PM »

cheers dave but that is not the problem, both pumps are fine and the one that is on the car now is brand new. could a damaged fuel line be the problem, if the pipe was split the vacum would be lost and the fuel would not be drawn up the pipe? can one access the fuel sender and delevery/return pipe feeds from within the car, or do you have to drop the tamk? common sense would dictate an access panel below the seat similar to the one under the bonnet to get at the master cylinder, but i can't see one anywhere in the manual.

Chris Lakin · « **Reply #24 on:** May 09, 2006, 07:05:56 PM »

hi Bruce just done this a couple of weeks ago, you may have heard i broke down in wiltshire, it turned out my fuel lines (old orginal rope covered lines) had severed, i tested the pump that was only few months old that and nothing was being pumpe dout of it when ignition turned over, i wondered if fragments of perished rubber and rope had gone donw the line and into the pump. if the lines are split then their is no fuel pressure, regardless if the pump is working or not.

The way i changed fuel lines was by removing the rear wheel (by the tank) i only realised this was the best way after i had struggled removing the tank underneath, this will allow access to the tank, you will now see the filler kneck and breather pipe along with the fuel lines. undo the 3 nuts holding the tank up i would suggest not removing the whole tank, just lower it.this should give you a couple of inches to get the new lines slipped on.

if you find that there isnt enough space drop the whole tank out & sort the new lines, i went to halfords and got 2x 1metre legnth lines reinforced stuff without the rope. (note which wire is the sender tank unit thinging magiggy on the top of the tank) there are two wires with slid connectors on each. if you drop the tank out you will need to remove the interior panel inside the wing, which allows you to disconect the breather pipe and pull it down underneath the car to give you slack when re attatching back to the tank.

A trolley jack will help push it up to were it should be it helped me out alot gave me my two hands back!

if you want further instruction or unsure just ask m8

regards

Chris

Bruce · « **Reply #25 on:** May 09, 2006, 07:45:06 PM »

cheers chris, i'll try that. should have doen this first before i spent all that dosh on a new pump and pushrod. will the pump be the same as the one in the manual with the intake pipe towards the front of the car. or is it a case of "suck it and see"? also what is the situation on new tanks, mine is a little rusty on the outside.

Chris Lakin · « **Reply #26 on:** May 09, 2006, 08:20:11 PM »

the pump is exactly the same m8,

Bruce im pleased u aksed about the diagram. in the manual this diagram is actualy incorrect, look at the fuel feed line it goes to the wrong pipe on the pump.

(this diagram is incorrect, the lines are the other way round) someone else will confirm this

with regard to a rusty tank, what i did when i took mine out, is degrease it with a rag and gunk then used a pot of underseal and slapped it on, most of it had come off onto my hands by the time i got the tank in, but its good stuff. You can buy a motor bike slosh sealent for fuel tanks for Ã‚Â£14 from frost.co.uk which pours in and seals rust out, but mine wasnt bad i also stuck a magnet inside to get rusty bits out. i wouldnt bother with it. just get lines back on. should consider a few filter this will stop any crap getting in from tank.

Mate before you start ripping out these fuel lines (it might not be the fuel lines) get some old fuel line which is in good nick or buy new from halfords only Ã‚Â£3.99 for 1m. disconect old lines from pump and attatch these new lines and submerge into a can of petrol get someone to try and turn her over, makesure the fuel lines arnt too long when you do this, just long enough to get into can of petrol. I disconected the fuel line from pump to carb and put the line into a small bucket so i could visually see the fuel being pumped out, as apposed to smelling it going into carb. if you are getting petrol its obviously your fuel line. in which case wip that tank out, underseal it and replace lines.

Bruce · « **Reply #27 on:** May 09, 2006, 09:44:46 PM »

i was going by this picture in the manual, but this appears to be wrong aswell:

this picture from the parts book seems to confirm that the picture and diagram are wrong, although it seems the tank end is right:

as the filter would obviously be on the inlet pipe.

that said my inlet seems to be ok as i could suck fuel up to the filter but my return pipe is definatly split, so i may as well replace both while i have the tank out.

Chris Lakin · « **Reply #28 on:** May 09, 2006, 10:07:55 PM »

there you go m8, has to be return pipe preventing fuel from being sucked up get it replaced and i garauntee your BIS will fire up sweet

just to here her run, cut some of the return pipe off and get a good bit of it and conect it too in-fuel pipe on pump and put other end into can of petrol, at least it will boost moral once you hear her fire up.

regards

Chris

Bruce · « **Reply #29 on:** May 09, 2006, 10:11:32 PM »

thanks for your help chris.