Aircooled engine not idling - carb? Quick roadside fix?

[gnash]

Ebay is a terrible thing!  Bought a 1987 aircooled and am due to fly from Belfast to High Wycombe to collect it on saturday and drive it home via Fleetwood.

However, the catch is that the guy says that it doesn't idle properly and cuts out at junctions.  He reckons its a carbaurettor problem but is not sure.  It drives fine when it's going apparently.  It would make it a lot easier to drive the 250 odd miles if I could do something even temporary to get it home. ::

Any thoughts what tools would be useful - sledge hammer perhaps  

PS Anyone tried to put 2 spare doors on a roof rak for a long journey? :roll:

[ChrisRLewis]

Usual checks for cutting out on the aircooled:

I would take the distributor out, check the contact points, bob weights reinstall and reset the timing. This should take about 1 hour to do.

If still not right check carburettor jets, take the top off and clear the muck out. Take out the jets and clean with one of those carb cleaner aerosols I also use a small rubber tube to blow down the orifices. Reinstall and adjust the idle mixture.

There are a lot of other small things that can cause the problem such has tappets incorrectly set, water in petrol, old petrol, gasket leaks but hopefully the above two will be the problem.

Where in Wycombe is it? My mum lives there in case you want directions?

C
 

[paul harbinson.]

Austin I think I have a spare carb,if I get the chance before you go I'll have a hunt in the barn.

[gnash]

Thanks for the advice Cars,

I'll have a look at the points and the timing.  I'm not sure we'll have much time to work on it before we set out - it probably will be at the roadside in a carpark somewhere as the seller has to go to work once we've picked it up.  The cleaning out te carb sounds like an option - I'll have to see if I can put my hand on one of those aerosols.

Thanks Paul, if you have a spare carb that would be excellent! But only if you get the chance.  I wonder how long it would take to fit and I s'pose I'd need to bring a new gasket or some sealant and hose clips...

austin

[Chris Lakin]

Austin, im only 15 miles or so from high wycombe, i was born their!!

that aircooled had only 16k miles if i remeber correctly!!! youve done well their austin if it runs well?

your very welcome to drop in  for a cuppa if you get time? and tweak the new arrival before you set off,  no worries otherwise though.

get a new carb kit, i.e. from ricambio, about £15, has all gaskets u need, + other bits.

i dont know what the others think, but it could be carb flooding? David (126cab) had a problem with his 500 estate, was overfueling and cutting out, and wouldnt start again when hot. turned out to be worn needle i think.

well done m8!!! im pleased it going to a good home!

[PaulB]

here's some really simple things the seller could try before you get there...

remove the idle screw (careful not to drop it!) and put a straw or similar into the hole and blow hard - it should clear the idle jet if its blocked. A blast of compressed air would be even better.

Another is to pull out the air filter and see how it runs - poor air supply and the idle will be far too rich

also double check the choke is working and not stuck 'on'

Before setting off you need to set the tappets (when stone cold so do this before even trying the engine), points and then timing (in that order) anyway. New plugs would be a benefit. All of this will improve the engine's running anyway. Give the car a thorough looking at - especially check the wheels and tyres and look for weeping at the brakes and pipe unions - its a long drive. Top up with correct oil and fill the screen wash - you'll need it.

You'll be passing Middle Barton Garage on your way home so have their number and a map handy incase you need to duck off the motorway and get some spares. They know these engines inside out. If you are a 500club (and 126 club?) member they'll give you a good discount at the counter.

Finally, make sure you have some basic tools (especially a 13mm spanner, flat blade screwdriver and feeler gauges - can't remember the spanner for the tappets, but you'll need one of those as well), a torch, breakdown cover and a fully charged mobile phone - assume the car has been neglected (no offence to the seller, but if you've not tinkered with the car yourself, you've no idea what condition its in).

Keep an eye on fuel as a large spoon holds more than a 126 tank.

[Chris Lakin]

very sound advice there Paul!!

i think we should create a fixed post message(sticky) on the forum about buying a 126 and the things to check for. Your advice there will help alot of people!!

thanks again Paul.

regards

Chris

[PaulB]

I speak from bitter experience... Forgot to mention - get hold of a Haynes manual for the 126 before you set off if you can. It is excellent and may well be what gets you home (cheap off ebay or maybe someone local will lend you one?). If not, take the settings for plugs, tappet, points and timing. And also take a roll of electrical tape and some wire - its not just for electrical problems - you can 'fix' all sorts with them.

Apart from that, kick back and enjoy the ride. Its nearly as good as a 500

[gnash]

Thanks for the excellent comprehensive advice Paul and the additional very knd offer of a cuppa Chris!  

I'll definately bring the details of Middle Barton Garage with me - it looks just far enuff up the road for any problems to become apparent.  

I'll let you know how well or disastrously it all goes  

[126dave]

all the best with your epic journey,hope its better than my one from brighton with an ebay bargain!!!!

[The Laird]

Why not take a camera, pen and paper and compile a story for the next newsletter ?!

[Sam]

The spare carb sounds like a good deal if you can get ahold of it.  

I drove my 126 about 120 miles with the same problem when I bought it.  I picked it up and it had been stored for some time.  My problem was a leaky float in the carb.  I don't think anyone mentioned that yet.  The old carb was so old and weathered that the parts came out with great difficulty.  For all the time and frustration, I should have just bought a new one the first time.  Eventually I did.

Once i got the new one on, it ran like a champ.  The new carb has the electronic idler on it.  I was skeptical at first since I like simple old school mechanical things but it seems to be an improvement when it comes to cold starts and idling.

[Chris Lakin]

hi sam this "electronic idler" sounds good. can you explain further? i have never seen one.

thanks sam

regards

Chris

[Sam]

Chris,

I really don't know how to explain it since I didnt dare take it apart to see how it worked.  It is a little cylinder placed into the hole where the idle speed screw is normally located.  It has a slide on electrical connection.  The little terminal on the end of the apparatus hooks to one of the terminals on the ignition coil.  As best as I can figure, it is some type of electromagnetic device governend by the frequency of the spark.  Anyone who has any other insight could probably tell you better.  It seems to be working good for me.  Below is a link on E-bay.  At risk of stealing someone elses pics, I just posted the link.  It is a pretty good picture of this little device.  You will see it, its the small silver cylinder with the small print on it.


http://cgi.ebay.de/Fiat-126-Vergaser-Car-burettor_W0QQitemZ7984500942QQcategoryZ33550QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[paul harbinson.]

Sam you basicially hit the nail on the head.I've had mine apart.It has a jet in it (not airplane carburettor) and it's a solenoid which open's and close's the jet .