interior panels and engine fired!

[Gordan]

Wery nice, i watched the video a dozen times just amased...  :wink:
but how do we know there isnt a little man isnide opening the doors...  :smt043  :smt043  :smt031    

[stuey]

no midgets on my watch sir..... :wink:

[Pawel83]

:shock: You must have a lot of free time. Show some pics of the interior  :wink:

[Gordan]

Do a little movie about the boot, wanna see how that looks.

p.s. did you make those solenids yourself, or is it a kit you installed?

[nrg19uk]

i know maplins do a kit for about 35 pounds last time i looked.

[stuey]

its a central locking kit from ebay think it was about £20 I merely attached the solenoids to the wire for the interior door pulls- the trick is getting the tension correct - too much and the doors wont latch, not enough and the door wont open..

the boot one is very simple- just weld the bracket to the side of lock- drill a hole for the acuting rod though the top of the lock then just mount it wire it (sepreate switch or off the old wiper wiring like i did) hours work tops

if you guys want pics of what went where just ask and I will post some, Ive done all the hard stuff and made the mistakes ( 2 burnt out solenoids) so you dont have to!  :wink:

[Gordan]

Show off!!, cmon give us those pics.
p.s. do you have to remove the locks, cos i dont want to repaint my whole car just so my doors can pop out...  

[stuey]

nope you can do this and leave all the existing stuff in place, ill sort some pics tonight as Im currently at work....

[Gordan]

:smt023

[stuey]

sorry guys havent got around to the pics of the solenoids (tommorrow i promise) but i have been doing this-

On a recent (illicit) test drive I managed to smash the front wheel into the wing  ..

so to fix this issue and to give the stance a more consistant look I needed to dial in some negative camber at the front, the method has been done before but not really picture documented but it basically goes like this-

take a standard 126 top arm-

create a cardboard template to allow you to know the location of the original bolt centre -

them measure over 9mm for the new one-

drill a guide hole using the template-

then weld up the old one and drill out the full size new one-

and fit to car-

here a pic of the side i hadnt done at that point for comparison-


heres a couple of the pics with both sides done-

[Darrell]

I had mine like that a while back, steering went harder and didn't really notice much diference in handling.

What have you found?

[Tomasz]

Looks great, thanks for posting the pics, its really useful.  I may be thinking about doing this when i have the time.  
By the way i didnt call because they had already done half the spraying on the mg when i got back from work!

Darrell:  did you go about the neg camber in the same way?  If so do you have the modded top arms spare as that would save me some time.

[stuey]

last few bits today and tomorow- did all the seam sealing and undersealing today then sorted the cathode tube for the numberplate light- i used some box section and welded some threaded round blocks to mount it to the bumper and incorperated the plate mounts to it as well-



 I cut a hole to let the light out then simply slid the cathode tube up the box section et voila! (night time test was to satisfy me it was bright enough!

[Darrell]

Funny thing was that the camber on mine went out alot after changing the king pins things.

I got some reconditioned ones from *a company near london that sells fiat spares beginning with R*

The camber change was dramatic but I drove it for a bit and the steering went quite a bit harder.

[Gordan]

the king pins things.

LOL, thats funny...