Author Topic: Help Front Spring Retainer Block (Read 5065 times)

Pete126 · « **on:** September 20, 2006, 11:02:56 PM »

Hi Don't know if any other member has had this problem, I took the front spring off this afternoon to get it re-tempered, everything was going so well until i got to the last two bolts, its always the case.
the problem is that one of the captive bolts that hold the spring retainer on is just spinning round, i looked to see if i could get into the crossmember but i'm still scratching my head, does anybody know how i can fit a new bolt. THANKS.

ChrisRLewis · « **Reply #1 on:** September 20, 2006, 11:39:05 PM »

Looks a tricky one!
If there is no access to the top of the bolts. I guess the only way is to cut a section out of the top panel, and reweld the captive bolt to the body then reweld the section removed.

Fiat 500 diagram (should be similar)

126dave · « **Reply #2 on:** September 21, 2006, 07:42:17 AM »

i've had a look inside my open bis section(cut for nigel).........they are just captured with a spot of weld on mine,major surgery to get to them.

i would weld from under neath the car,then open out the block slightly to cover the weld............you will get lots of smoke,maybe a small fire,the inside of that box is well coated with waxy stuff....be aware.

another way is this,put all in position,and with nice clean threads on the damaged stud,hold the bottom of the stud with pointy pliers,and hand screw a NON thread lock nut on(with spring washer),then,when thread is showing on 'outside' of nut,hold that and continue screwing the nut down,then you can transfer to molegrips to hold the stud and tighten fully with spanner,get my drift?

.thats what i would try.

Pete126 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 21, 2006, 05:29:27 PM »

Thanks for the suggestions cars & dave, i damaged the threads trying to remove the locknut from the captive bolt so i think i'll have to hacksaw the locking nut off, i can then use a hole cutter on the floor just big enough to get a socket with an extension bar on and replace the bolt. then use a rubber gromet to seal the hole under the front carpet, or thats the theory.

126dave · « **Reply #4 on:** September 21, 2006, 06:05:35 PM »

sounds a good aproach.....then you can slurp some more waxoil in the section as well...........

michaelodonnell500 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 21, 2006, 07:51:56 PM »

Hi. Ive had this happen twice now!

Same remedy as a bove. I had to the bolt in half to allow me to repair.

I welded the end of a new bolt, then tacked the bolt to the body, and then ground out the inside of the alloy block until it would fit over. I managed this with electric welder (all I have) so I reckon it would be pretty straight forward with mig or gas.

When you put it back together use as much waxoil as you can. Especially at the exposed end of the bolt, this should stop it from happening again!

Michael

Pete126 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 01, 2006, 09:35:45 PM »

Finally got some good weather on a wednesday my day off and put the modified spring on, reverse eye. had it modified locally by a spring manufacturer/refurbisher for sixty quid and a set of spring eye bushes which they had to burn out to retemper the main leaf.

this is the old spring i took off

this is it when i got it back

it gives about 38mm drop on the front end and a bit of neg/camber

and this is how the car sits on the spring

126dave · « **Reply #7 on:** November 01, 2006, 09:47:59 PM »

looks good mate,the camber looks positive to me tho...just the pics?.nice job tho,im sure you have done,but...be sure to re do the tracking eh? that spring eye is crucial the the toe in/out.......

as an aside,im running dead neutral toe/in/out,.it makes the car very nervous,but great turn in tho!!! (all the best fighter planes are un stable,that makes them more manovrable).........

Chris Lakin · « **Reply #8 on:** November 01, 2006, 09:52:27 PM »

blimey mate you have been busy!!

looks wicked without bumpers!!!

nice one, almost done then?

whats next to do?

regards

Chris

p.s. dave we are back to ww2 fighter planes!

Pete126 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2006, 10:19:23 PM »

Hi Cris & Dave. thanks for the encouragement, the tracking will need setting up as it looks like it is toeing out, iv'e only moved it about ten foot forward/backward so the suspension won't have settled down yet, the next is the rear suspension gunna chop a coil out of the spring and see if i have to modify the top of the shockers to keep the spring in its seat.

126dave · « **Reply #10 on:** November 02, 2006, 06:27:16 PM »

go for it,if you cut the bottom off the spring it should be ok,i did my hotrod this way,i then got the cut end heated up and flattened,then ground it to final shape myself,if you bugger it up ive got some spare springs here free +postage....good to see someone going for it!!!

next thing after that is modding the top links pete!!

Pete126 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 02, 2006, 10:25:02 PM »

Hi dave, been looking on axel gerste site last night to buy new pair of top arms to modify, is it best to get them complete with bushes?
if it stays dry this weekend i'll have a go at chopping the rears,

126dave · « **Reply #12 on:** November 03, 2006, 07:44:53 AM »

pete,they told me the complete arms were no longer availible,i just got the arms and a bush set,you can mod the arms then swop your top pivot when you fit them.
bushes are quite straight forward to do,if you have a bench and decent vice etc.....

if you do this i'll give you some more detail on how i did it,you can even use my jig if you want,its proven to work,the front wheels are still on my car,and tyre wear is not noticible.

good luck with the springs.... (remember seats out etc to get the top shock mounts,then drop the swing arm as far as it will go,you should just get the spring and shock out with the brake lines still attatched,oh,and dont loose the little anti rattle spring that pops out the end of the drive shaft!) :idea: did'nt our polish mate mention using the shorter shocks from the front or rear when doing this mod?

cant remember the thread now,check it out tho :idea:

ps,did you cut the ally blocks as well?? if not leave them till its all settled,they give you another 10ish mm if you need it :cool:

Pete126 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 03, 2006, 06:50:20 PM »

Thanks for all the info dave, i'll get the top arms on order knowing axel i should have them in 3 to 4 weeks but there cheap enough, i always think its best to start with fresh metal, did you just fill the existing holes or did you cut some flat 2/3mm black and shape it to the inner profile of the outside of the arm, and then welded on the outside of the arms?
as for shaving the alloy blocks, i'm going to leave them as they are, we have alot of speed bumps round where i live the last thing i want is to rip off the front suspension. valenti said that in poland they use the rear shockers on the front when they lowered the front spring because there shorter/stiffer and compensate for the shorter travel,

126dave · « **Reply #14 on:** November 03, 2006, 06:58:21 PM »

i filled mine,i used some small bolts,cut the heads off then pressed them into the excisting holes,then brazed them,grind off the excess and then redrill using a simple jig out of flat,you cannot go more that 10mm easily,you run out of flat arm part,after that you need to weld in new metal and use a longer top bolt.
once they are resprayed and new bushes fitted,they look great.

i run mine with dead neutral toe in/out....very nervous but great fun !!!