Club126UK
Fiat 126 Chat => Fiat 126 Mechanical Problem Solving => Topic started by: ciaoflyer on August 11, 2010, 06:41:18 PM
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Can anyone confirm that 0.7 danm is 5.1 Foot Lb.
I am torquing up the nut on the end of the front wheel hub after changing brakes and it says tighten to 0.7 danm. Also is it worth replacing this nut and if so where can I get them?
Ta!
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I have never seen danm before but i found out that it stands for deca newtonmetres (1 danm is 10Nm). I used a converter on the net and 7Nm came up as 5.16 Lb/Ft.
I was able to get new nuts for the wheel hub, it came with the wheel bearing sets (one's a LH nut.) It's worth replacing if it's been beaten very flat a lot of times or bits are missing from it. Don't know the measurements though but car parts stores should have them.
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Thought i'd post the link as it might useful (since it's quick):
http://www.mr2ownersclub.com/converter.htm
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From the factory workshop manual
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Sorry
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Sorry
Can you upload bigger images as I can't read these even if I zoom in
Thanks
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sorry try this
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MOT testers don't like any play in the hub, but without a little play the bearing will overheat and self-distruct.
It's a constant battle with mine every MOT test to check the hubs for play :oops:
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sorry try this
Thanks for this, I have this in my Bis owners manual but all my torque settings are Danm not ft lb,
Ta
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I am worried about that nut because if it comes loose the wheel will fall off! Gonna check at my local factors to see if they sell them.
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OK got the nuts :o, however the right one is a reverse thread so how on earth do I get the correct torque as my wrench only works one way! Also put new drums on the rear and the brakes are slightly binding, is this normal or does it need further adjustment?
Thanks again!
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I have always adjusted front wheel bearings (new or repacked) by nipping up the nut (not wringing it's neck) and then backing it off until I had play. Then carefully tighten the nut until all the play has just gone and stake the nut there. I have done this on road race and rally cars and never had a problem. I see the factory workshop manual allows for .001 t0.004 inches (1 to 4 thou) axial play. And as you say the MOT man doesn't like any play at all. Been there, done that, lost that arguement. (NO PLAY MEANS NO PLAY)
It has always struck me as odd that the nut on the left side is right hand thread and vice versa. This means that that given the chance the nuts will undo rather that do up. As long as the washer is fitted and the nuts correctly staked it won't happen. I always prefered castleated nuts and split (cotter) pins myself. The only time I have ever seen a problem with Fiat nuts coming undone is when someone has assembled the wheel bearings without the washer and the they only come undone so far before they destroy themselves and seize.
Allan
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I am with Allan 100% on this one . I have set wheel bearings to the workshop manual on some older cars then failed an MOT , gone back home , over tightened the bearings , passed the MOT then reset them straight away [-/
Not sure I have seen a torque wrench that only works one way ???
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Thanks for that, the wrench works both ways but only torques to the right
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Could you not try one of these. You know the old stylee ones that you made do with when you were starting out and couldn't afford a decent one from Britool or Snap On.
I'm sure the bendy bar that indicates torque works both ways.
No the best on computers but have tried to put a link onto our favourite auction site.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-HILKA-TORQUE-WRENCH-METER-/320572886322?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment
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Could you not try one of these. You know the old stylee ones that you made do with when you were starting out and couldn't afford a decent one from Britool or Snap On.
I'm sure the bendy bar that indicates torque works both ways.
No the best on computers but have tried to put a link onto our favourite auction site.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-HILKA-TORQUE-WRENCH-METER-/320572886322?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment
Great idea ta!
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Before I stake these nuts would it make sense to replace the wheel bearings and are they easy to change?
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Can anyone give me some advise on changing front bearings?
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Why do you feel the need to change your front wheel bearings? If they are not rough or noisy then leave them alone. Back in the 1960s we used to clean and repack the front wheel bearings on all Fiat models (500/600/850/124/125/1500) every 12,000 miles regardless of whether they needed it or not until it was decided that we were doing more good than harm and the process was stopped. In my opinion it is neccessary to change both bearings on the same hub if one is rough. They are not expensive and most come as a kit these days. SKF do a good kit with bearings, a seal and generally the nut or nuts. It is not difficult to change wheel bearings but it is difficult to explain. If you want me to I will try and explain how it is done.
Regards
Allan
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Thanks you have put my mind at rest! It is just that my MOT is due at the end of the month so thought I would check. They seem to be fine no noise or roughness. I will stake the nuts and see how I get on.
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Last week i had an advisory on my MOT for this exact issue! I thought they were fine, now im sure they are!!
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Ok, here goes:
After the crash i found that there was too much play in the bearings up front and didn't tighten the rear ones with a torque wrench 'cause i didn't have one at the time. Torqued them all up as in the service manual. Rear ones no problems (didn't need to tighten much) front left was perfect, front right was a bit rough. Oh well i thought i'll just replace it. Replaced it, torqued/adjusted, drove 30kms and it started rumbling. Got home, wheel and drum off, grease everywhere, hub off, outer small bearing destroyed (literally, there were fine metal particles in it). Bashed hub seal back in anger as it had slipped out, put in a used but good bearing, torqued and off i went. Went for a while and same thing happened. Left one in the mean time no problems. Replaced with new bearings and seal (proper metal housing type not the rubbish new types) and torqued. Went for a while and decided to check up on things. Good idea as this is what was with the left wheel bearing:
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So, came to the conclusion that torquing and adjusting directly as stated in service manual caused the bearings to be overtightened. The right hand one lost grease 'cause the seal couldn't take it and let the grease out. Luckily no damage on the left one on the bearings or the seal. Regreased, backplate cleaned and put together and adjusted according to my hands. Funny that when i torqued and adjusted it as stated the bearings moved smoothly however after a few km's they became tight and rough.
I've also noticed that there's some play in the right hand side kingpin.... the crash didn't help but it's mainly due to the bad roads. When i grease it the play disappears....
Just thought i'd share my experience. I guess i relied too much on the book (i always adjust things according to the manual but best to check twice afterwards). Interesting thing happened when i got new tyres fitted: drove off, knocking sound came from the front left wheel. Already knew what had happened. Parked in a car park, jacked up the car, wheels off , front wheel went to the back, back to the front and the knocking stopped! That one wheel sat a bit tight on the front hub but fine on the rear, while the other wheel was a bit looser on the front hub and could sit on the hub properly when tightened...
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I always get an advisory on my 126 Bis, stating that there was a slight play. Fortunately, the MoT tester (was Italian) was familiar with 500s and early 126s, having owned quite a few in the past, was familiar with the issue you guys have been discussing. He decided to put the "play" on advisory to cover himself and the garage and said that I should not worry about it and the advisory can be ignored. I thought that was odd of him to say that. If the play was normal, why put the car on advisory. It was bugging me a little bit. Now I understand his explanation - many thanks!