Club126UK
Fiat 126 Chat => Fiat 126 Mechanical Problem Solving => Topic started by: craigdiver on July 10, 2016, 09:55:11 AM
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Hi all,
My 126 came with 4 soft as s#!te locking wheel bolts (with no key). First one I tried (O/S REAR) to remove sheared. Had a go with an easy-out but drilled off-centre and also well and truly welded in with galling. Think will need a new hub (as per photo below). What is the part called I need to replace that takes the wheel bolts?
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l246/craigdiver/Mobile%20Uploads/image_8.jpeg)
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Here you go ;)
http://webshop.fiat500126.com/katalog/artikelinfo/2978/wheel_hub_axle_stub_rear?lang=en
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Do you need both the rear hubs, or just one?
I can have a look in my shed to see what I`ve got.
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Do you need both the rear hubs, or just one?
I can have a look in my shed to see what I`ve got.
Think just the one as if another shears ill give it to a professional to remove the sheared part with heat etc.
If you have one please let me know how much you want for it and ill arrange the carriage.
Cheers 👍🏻
Craig
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Is it worth buying the Haynes Fiat 126 Haynes 1973-77 manual? How mechanically similiar is my 1999 aircooled ELX to the original aircooled cars?
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No problem, I`ll have a look laters and let you know. I`ve got few rear suspension arms in the shed, so shouldn`t be a problem.
It`s definitely worth buying a Haynes manual, or there should be one somewhere on the forum if you are a subscriber ;)
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If you havent gone into the thread, it might be worth having a go at the remains of the bolt with a center punch and hammer tapping it round and out.
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Perhaps (if the thread is not damaged), put the brake drum back on and then try drilling the broken stud out, start with a drill the same diameter as the brake drum hole just to find the centre, and then work up in drill sizes..
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If you havent gone into the thread, it might be worth having a go at the remains of the bolt with a center punch and hammer tapping it round and out.
Hi Andy, quite a bit of experience of stubborn fasteners and this one appears to be a pig, not helped by me drilling the hole off-centre for the easy out. Had a go with the punch but stud very soft and not going anywhere easily
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Perhaps (if the thread is not damaged), put the brake drum back on and then try drilling the broken stud out, start with a drill the same diameter as the brake drum hole just to find the centre, and then work up in drill sizes..
Chris, this is great advice that I wished I had had before I started! Think this one is beyond it though.
Cheers 👍🏻
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AND, I have a feeling when I try to remove the locking bolts from the other three wheels they will shear too 😳
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Could it be Heli-coiled?
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Could it be Heli-coiled?
Not keen on heli-coiling wheel bolts (or using helicoils in general!) as not a blind hole and difficult to see if it is seated correctly and not screwed through the hole.
Thanks for the input anyway 👍🏻😀
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You could always fill the hole with weld and then re-thread. It may be worth checking if your aftermarket locking wheel studs are the correct thread pitch, I think Fiat used two different thread pitches on 126 wheel studs..?
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Those locking wheel bolts really do work then :o but I guess that it is the unlocking bit that is the problem.
You must have got enough purchase on the bolt to shear it. Have you tried the other bolts? I think that you are wasting your time with so called easy outs because of the forces involved.
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Those locking wheel bolts really do work then :o but I guess that it is the unlocking bit that is the problem.
You must have got enough purchase on the bolt to shear it. Have you tried the other bolts? I think that you are wasting your time with so called easy outs because of the forces involved.
I agree fully. I bought the car with a locking wheel bolt on each wheel. I used a self adjusting socket to attempt to remove the first one and I could feel the galling (dissimilar metals welding together). Tried to get a gallon of WD40 into the threads, left it a bit then tried again but just sheared. When drilling the remains it feels like a aluminium/cheese alloy! I had no option other than to let it shear otherwise I would have never got the wheel off. Plan for the other three is if it feels like it is galling I will just drill the head off and dismantle down to hub carrier and then I can unleash the full force of my heat/release compund weaponry! 😳😜
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You could always fill the hole with weld and then re-thread. It may be worth checking if your aftermarket locking wheel studs are the correct thread pitch, I think Fiat used two different thread pitches on 126 wheel studs..?
Not my locking wheel studs, if I knew who put alloy bolts into steel without a touch of copperslip, I would have non-threatening strong words with them😛.
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Finally got keys to my new workshop, now can get little 126 into the dry away from the nasty Scottish weather.
Spent the day working to remove the sheared stud and finally got it with some patience, a gallon of wd40 and some heavy tools. Good news is that once I fire a tap through the threads they will be fine. Managed to carefully remove the 3 other locking wheel bolts without shearing them.
Happy days 😀👍🏻😀
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if anyone else gets this sort of issue with sheared wheel bolts or any bolts in general, as long as the bolt is steel, dont forget that if you have a mig welder then slowly bild up the weld on the bolt and then you can either put a nut on the end or if you have turbo sockets use that to remove the shered bolts. it seems to work most if not every time i try.
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Spent ages sanding the wheels down to bare metal, etching, priming and painting them silver. Managed to get a hold of the metal Fiat centre caps which have now been sandblasted and painted satin black. Wheels look amazing. Will take a photo once I can get the car out my workshop (blocked by my straight 6 BMW that I'm stripping as a donor car to make a McSorley 442E sportscar).
I'm looking for a set of chrome bumpers?