Club126UK
Fiat 126 Chat => Fiat 126 Mechanical Problem Solving => Topic started by: Bambino126 on December 07, 2015, 08:43:18 PM
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Got my sump off at the moment to change the sump gasket to cure yet another leak, and I've noticed that the Conrods have a lot of lateral play on them on the crankshaft, so I'm thinking that I might as well change the big end bearing shells whilst I've got everything in bits at the moment.
There seems to be 2 types available, one with 3 drillings and one with 2.
Both say they are suitable for the BIS.
The standard ones that are on my car have 2 holes so are the 3 hole type an upgrade of some sort, an improvement to reduce wear, or are they just for a different version of the car?
Which should i get?
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Taken them out now.
They don't look very good to me, but I'm no expert.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/tashman_/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0352.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/tashman_/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0352.jpg.html)
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Incidentally, this nail fell out of the sump when I took it off, where does it come from?
I can't see it on the Fiat exploded diagram of the sump parts.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/tashman_/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0348.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/tashman_/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0348.jpg.html)
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ohohohoh nice con rods bearings :) what mileage has engine ? change them quickly :)
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So shall I get the same type, with 2 holes?
The engine has 55,000 miles (88,000km), but the last owner thought oil changes were a waste of time!
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Could that "nail" be the fuel pump rod?
If you have the option stick with what you have i.e 2 hole version, but I don't think it matters..
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Yes, with 2 holes.
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Cheers guys ;)
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That bearing doens`t look too good at all. Make sure you also check the cranks as that could be the reason why you keep having this oil leak problems.
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I changed the rear crankshaft main bearing last time the engine was out to look for leaks.
Gonna do the front crankshaft main bearing now as well for the sake of completeness. Then (along with the big-end bearings) all 4 bearings are new.
But its a bit like opening Pandora's box... While I've got the sump off I'm having a little look at the Oil pump....looks bad.
The strainer was all bunged up with little hard black crud lumps. The long shaft that goes through to the water pump and the cog-wheel that drives it is all worn. According to the Fiat manual you measure the thickness of the shaft in 3 places with a micrometer - done that and its worn below Fiat's allowable tolerance in each place.
Then inside the oil pump there is a sort of arrangement where a 4 pointed star rotates inside a 5 pointed star. Well the 4 points are all damaged, with deep grooves, wear, and chips of metal missing.
On the 5 point star: the top flat side has a huge circular groove cut in it by something and a groove of the same shape is cut into the strainer housing where it bolts to the "5-star".
If you lift out the 5-star ring, you find that a bad grooved rut has been cut into the sump by something getting trapped between the 5 star ring and the sump.
Turning the sump the upside down to the waterpump side, it looks as though the waterpump has exploded in the past and been replaced. A big hunk of "liquid metal" type stuff has been added to the outside of the sump to repair a big hole in it where presumably the old impellor made a bid for freedom.
Don't want to dismantle any more parts its too depressing! :cry:
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Well it doesn`t sound too good with your engine.
I would start from square one a build up a new engine.
I have a spare low mileage block here which I only need the crank from. The problem is I have sold few bits of it already, but i`ll have a look at it today and see what`s there.
If it helps you out, you can have it really cheap.
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My (complete) spare BIS engine is stripped for inspection and bore/crank/pump shaft appear fine though shells are scrap and it too is badly gunked up from too few oil changes. Sounds like it might be a better basis for a rebuild than yours? Please get in touch if you want to deal :-)
Keith
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Thank you, both of you, for kindly offering me engines/parts to help me out, but I've already ordered a load of parts to sort out the problems. The crank is within spec, and the cylinder bores look good so I'm just going to repair the bottom end and that will sort me out for a while.
I'll put up some photos tomorrow to show the progress ;)
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Good luck! Make sure all those oil ways in crank etc are really well cleared through :D
Keith
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(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/tashman_/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0353.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/tashman_/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0353.jpg.html)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/tashman_/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0354.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/tashman_/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0354.jpg.html)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/tashman_/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0355.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/tashman_/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0355.jpg.html)
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I've now taken off the timing chain cover. This is to get access to the front crankshaft bearing carrier, to change it so that the crank has 4 new bearings.
However it looks as though the timing chain has become too stretched and it sits very loose on the sprockets.
It also looks as though its been "whipping against the inside of the timing cover because there are now 2 grooves cut into the casing (see picture)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/tashman_/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0356.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/tashman_/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0356.jpg.html)
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No worries regarding the engine. If you change your mind or get stuck for some parts just give me a shout.
Did you check the camshaft lobes? These also have a tendency to wear down and looking at everything else in your engine is better to check all.
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Camshaft is next on my checklist. But after that I really must put it all back together before I forget how :P
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How do you get the camshaft out?
I've taken the sprocket off the end and I'm pulling from there, but the cam moves about 2 mm then stops.
Do I just need to be more forceful or is there something else holding it in?
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Next question - what about the crank itself?
I'd like to take it right out of the block so that I can clean out the oilways more thoroughly and then change this bronze bush thats causing the leak.
I've taken out the bearing carriers from both ends, and the cranks is detached from the conrods but I can't seem to wriggle the crankshaft out of the crankcase.
Is it even possible to remove the crank without taking out the piston/conrods?? ???
I don't really want to remove the cylinder head to get the pistons out because the job is expanding too much.
If its not possible then I'll have to do it "in situ".
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If you remove the spark plugs and push the pistons up as far as they will go, then move both conrods to one side by rotating the crank you should be able to maneuver one side out, turn the crank so it misses the other internal parts, Its a bit like a Chinese puzzle :D
P.S. The crank comes out of the bottom of the engine and not through the ends ;D
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If you remove the spark plugs and push the pistons up as far as they will go, then move both conrods to one side by rotating the crank you should be able to maneuver one side out, turn the crank so it misses the other internal parts, Its a bit like a Chinese puzzle :D
P.S. The crank comes out of the bottom of the engine and not through the ends ;D
I know what you mean about a chinese puzzle, I thought I had tried every combination, but I hadn't taken the spark plugs out, just pushed the pistons up the bores with my fingers. Will retry tomorrow with more determination!!!
Any ideas on Cam-shaft removal?
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Remove the rocker box cover, remove the rocker shaft, remove the pushrods, pull out the camshaft followers, take out the distributor then you can pull the cam out make sure you mark up the pushrods and camshaft followers so they go back in the same place as where they came from :)