My 1992 126 BIS restoration project

[poxxxy]

Can't find any gl3 gearbox oil anywhere today . only gl5 see 80/90 at halfords and not sure it's ok for the internals of this box?

[rick]

The gear box oil is ZC90, available from Ricambio at £7.95 per ltr plus postage. Don't be tempted to use any other type of oil, it mucks up your synchromesh!

[poxxxy]

Yup I know it's originally tutella ZC90 which is an 80-90 SAE non ep gl3 gearbox oil. But I don't like waiting for something like oil when it's stopping progress elsewhere . What a pain in the arse!

Plan was to fill box through the inspection hole and then get it mounted up as I hate trying to squirt gearbox oil through a little hole in very awquard positions.

No more progress for today!

[rick]

Ohh yes! know that feeling, but better to wait than need to rebuild a gear noisy box. I've made that kind mistake too many times myself.

[poxxxy]

Hmmm just read a 90 grade gear oil is the same as a straight 30 engine oil. Might be an option!

[rick]

Ohh yes! know that feeling, but better to wait than need to rebuild a noisy gear box. I've made that kind mistake too many times myself.

Stupid computer, try to sort out a typo. and it adds a new post!!!

[rick]

Hmmm just read a 90 grade gear oil is the same as a straight 30 engine oil. Might be an option!

Not Shure about that, I thought oil grades just ran through the spectrum from thin to thick, not different grading for each application. The main problem is, I believe, that EP oils have anti squish additives that attack phosphor bronze.

[poxxxy]

Yeah the scales are different . Castrol recommended an Australian some engine oil to use in his Niki. also trying to see about gl4 and people saying it doesn't attack phosphor bronze, at least as much as gl5. Tempted to go to halfords and pick up the 80-90 gl4 they stock and be done with it.

How much is made out of yellow metals in these boxes is the question!

[poxxxy]

Right... After hours of reading and having bought some 15-40w mineral oil for the engine... It seems that mineral engine oil is a decent non ep transmission oil. Ideally 20-50 would of been better . but the 15-40 will equate to about 75-80w gearbox oil and will do for a short period at least till I can get the proper stuff sorted. Now it best actually want non EP .

http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

[poxxxy]

Hmmm so checking out the datasheet for the "mineral oil" I bought... turns out its actually semi synthetic according to the dodgy website? And probably therefore has additives in it to that may not be any good... Looks like a trip to B&Q tomorrow for some 20w-50w and i'm unsure on what to go for in the engine now .

[andyzeetec]

If your refering to the driveshaft oil seal boots, here is the How To I got off the duke of 126.... ( I still need to do mine but I can't unscrew the fill plug)

"Undo the wheel end hub 4 bolts on the driveshaft and slide back knuckle towards gearbox, be careful not to loose the spring inside, remove the circlip on the end of the shaft , slide outer boot/knuckle off shaft (towards wheel), then undo 4 bolts on gearbox to remove inner boot , 12,3,6,9 0 clock ones , slide old boot off all the way down shaft and off wheel end, then slide new ones up and reverse the list above ,easy job done.you will have to drain the oil first. and refill after."

Thanks Lad! I did come across that spring while searching last night on some other sites but not on axel! I best check the other side to incase I need a replacement! I need to double check the drive shafts girth today with some verniers before placing an order.

Any help with replacing the inner boot would be appreciated do wonder if I could do with a replacement input shaft seal for this bell housing you sent over to as unsure if mine will be serviceable once taken out.

Earlier in the week I also received my points from the shop here , cheers!

[poxxxy]

Ahh sweet so theres just a circlip holding that on the end . Easy job then to replace the outer one when it comes to it. I wonder if it is definitely an MOT failure though if I can get away without as its not that bad really...

[poxxxy]

Well after a very long few days finally got the engine and box back on the car. Reconnected everything. filled with oil. Then began to fill with water....

Then...

Water coming straight out the top of the again new head gasket near the back of the car... officially back to square 1 when I bought the car. I would like to say a big f you to the **** that sold me the car in the first instance with your b*llpoo and lies.

So at the minute I'm debating wtf to do. Car is driving me near suicide with its stupid problems and it's not like I haven't worked on cars before!

Maybe I should say f you to the supplier of the shoddy head gasket? .

Can't even test the rings really to see if the oil burning problem has stopped.

[Gadge]

You say water is comming out of the top near the head? Like dripping or pouring from a hole? Can you take a photo? Really sorry about your woes buddy I know exactly how your feeling I had head problems early on and was so down in the dumps 

[poxxxy]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Avisgo0mOs[/youtube]

I've never been so frustrated with a car, even having my heavy as hell Golf Gearbox off and on and apart 4 times fixing an issue with that was a walk in the park compared to the literal hell i'm going through with this engine.

Tried to fire her up but only running on what was the rough cylinder with full throttle applied and choke on full, sparks in the other one but doesn't want to know so not sure if valves are being held open by the cam cover... shouldn't be... was on rather loose and if it is... then what a terrible design because that's a brand new cam cover .

Tried rotating engine with the distributor out a full turn but still the same.

If I get it to run tomorrow I might be tempted to try some k-seal as a solution... but thinking its getting to the end of the line for now. .