Author Topic: Cutting out whilst driving  (Read 116 times)

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Essex 126

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Cutting out whilst driving
« on: July 13, 2018, 06:41:45 PM »
Evening all I have a problem and i'm wanting to pick on your wealth of experience.
I have a 98 126 with a 652cc and electronic controlled sparks.
She's fine on short journeys and barely misses a beat, however after half an hours driving she'll be fine under load, but soon as she slow's down (breaking for instance) or you down shift she cuts out (with the oil and batty light lighting up on the dash).
Pip (the car) is then totally dead, won't turn over, but the batty is full (95%), the engine isn't ceased (hand turns) but it wont crank. Turning the key on the ignition doe's dim the light on the dash, but no turning. She can't even be bump started at this point.

But give Pip a few hours to become stone cold and she'll fire up fine as if nothing happened, but will repeat the process after another half hour / 40min's.

Any body got any experience of this before, and how did you resolve this?

Thanks in advance - Pip and Driver

Yoshimisumi

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Cutting out whilst driving
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2018, 12:16:52 AM »
When my coil went it started out a bit like that, although not being able to crank at all is a bit odd...
Have you measured the battery voltage whilst cranking cold then also when it cuts out? Although if it starts again after 40 mins you'd say the battery is ok.

Edit: on reading again, as it's when slowing down you get the issues it could be rust in the fuel tank getting stirred up and clogging the filter? I've had that too. Runs leaner and leaner gets hotter.




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« Last Edit: July 14, 2018, 12:20:59 AM by Yoshimisumi »

Rusty's Uncle

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Re: Cutting out whilst driving
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2018, 08:16:42 AM »
This one completely throws me also, never heard anything like it. The light dimming on the dash does suggest a large power drain at the starter motor but no turning over. Do you hear the solenoid clicking? You may well have a combination of problems that makes all the more confusing. I would be inclined to check all the lines from the battery earth right the way through to the engine earth for bad connections or signs of damage. Possibly strip and inspect starter motor. On another front I would check valve clearances and points gap.

DEYAN IYI

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Re: Cutting out whilst driving
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2018, 09:29:56 AM »
Also make sure the fuel pump is not overheating for some reason. 2 friends of mine had that issue. The first one was fixing it with a bottle of water on board.  8)  The other found out that the pushrod was bended, after trying a brand new pump with no success.

Essex 126

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Re: Cutting out whilst driving
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2018, 10:35:35 AM »
Morning all and thank you.

Yoshimisumi - I'm pretty confident it's not the battery as it still won't turn / crank even with a booster or jump. The fuel filter is fairly new and the tank got redone 2 years ago (by previous owner), and it only happens when the engine has been running for more then half an hour, not on the shorter trips around town. The Coil was not something that has occurred to me though so i will have a look.

Rusty's Uncle - Solenoid, I wasn't aware that there was one (certainly not heard it either). Where would i find it and what does it control? I'll recheck the resistance on all the earth connections back to the terminal to see if there is a dry connection.

Deyan IYI - I'll have a look at the fuel pump and the rod also.

I'll keep you posted on Pip's aliments and when and if i find the solution i'll post that also, but first the Misses want's to go clothes shopping ( in other words drag me around Lakeside!).

Rusty's Uncle

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Re: Cutting out whilst driving
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2018, 01:09:15 PM »
I thought the late cars were key start but if it is still cable pull starter lever on the floor ignore that but I would still check out the starter :)

Yoshimisumi

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Re: Cutting out whilst driving
« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2018, 07:07:18 PM »
The solenoid is alongside the main starter motor body in the single assembly, easier to remove the thing as one and bench test it.

Best way I found for removal was getting at 2 fasteners (I think) from the engine bay round the rhs from behind and then have the back on stands to gain access underneath. You may need to jack a wheel to get the driveshaft out the way too and allow it to drop but it's very straightforward.

Disconnect the battery first as well as you're dealing with hopefully good connections!


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